Brighten up your garden with these non-traditional, stunning ornamentals that will surely illuminate any space!
What Are They?
From scrolling around the social landscape and scoping out local nurseries, all the way to cascading through lovely neighborhoods, we have found a few recurring, home-accentuating favorites that every gardener loves. Sure, this list doesn’t contain time-proven, all-time, world-renowned ornamentals like the Rose, considered the “Queen of Flowers”, or the Marigold, but it does contain flowers that will make any space look brighter in no time.
Without any further ado, our list:
- Peonies
- Oleander
- King Protea
- Agapanthus
- Hyacinth
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Growing Guide:
Peonies
Where & When To Plant
Season: Peonies bloom the most in late spring through summer. Different varieties of the peony plant offer different blooming times allowing you to schedule your blooms if you so please. These different varieties include:
- Woodland peonies
- Tree peonies
- Herbaceous peonies
- Intersectional peonies
The two most common types of peonies grow well in zones 3-7 with tree peonies also doing well in zones 8 and 9. Though they are different in cultivar, all peonies usually require the same care.
Planting: Try to plant peonies in the fall as they don’t tend to do well after transplanting. September into early October is best. If you are in zones 7-9, peonies can be planted later in the season. Fall planting gives plenty of time for the roots to settle into the ground before the first freeze.
Do not plant near other trees or shrubs as peonies don’t do well competing for nutrients.
Space the peonies about 3-4 feet from one another and position them in holes about 1-2 feet deep in the soil. Place the root system about 2 inches below the soil and gently compact the soil so the peonies get good air circulation and soil drainage.
Sun Exposure: Peonies love full sun, so position your seedlings in areas with at least 6-8 hours of full sun per day. You can provide shelter or plant near something that blocks high wind so they don’t get blown around.
Watering
Soil: Peonies need well-drained soil, fertile, and moist with neutral pH readings.
At the time of planting, maintain a consistent watering schedule for the first 4 weeks.
Once bloomed in early summer, they can manage on their own and don’t need the same type of watering. Water once per week.
Maintaining
Staking: Peony blooms are top heavy with blooms causing the stem to bend when at full maturity. Prevent this with staking so peonies can grow strong and tall.
Composting: Your soil should be nutrient and organic material-rich so if you are struggling to find an area to plant with these qualities, consider providing your own compost to amend the soil. Bonemeal works well providing the peonies enough soil nutrients.
Thankfully, peonies thrive on independence. They like being left alone to bloom and groom on their own. So, just make sure the soil is rich when planting, and then leave to adjust on their own.
Deadheading: You’ll want to deadhead blossoms as soon as they begin to fade. Cut the stems back so they don’t stick out of the foliage.
Disease/Pest Prevention
Although peonies are one of the many deer-resistant plants you can grow, along with being more on the hardy side, they are susceptible to:
Disease
- Ringspot virus
- Tip Blight
- Stem rot
- Leaf blotch
- Verticillium wilt
Pest
- Rabbit damage
- Hepilus lupulinus – moth larva damages roots and crown
Prevention: Ensure best chances for peony health by planting with 3-4 feet of space from one another for good air circulation, proper soil drainage, and flower stakes. Use pesticides to prevent moth larva from damaging roots and crowns.
Oleander
Warning: Avoid growing Oleander in places where children or animals will play. All parts of Oleander shrubs are poisonous and smoke from burning Oleander is toxic. Always remember to wear gloves and love sleeves when tending Oleander shrubs.
Where & When To Plant
Season: Oleander grows in the warmer climates of Southern states near coastal regions. Best states to grow Oleander range from South Carolina to Florida but can grow in any hardiness zone 7-9 with some cultivars thriving in zone 10-11.
Most popular cultivars include:
- ‘Calypso’ – Cold hardy with cherry red flowers
- ‘Isle of Capri’ – Up to 7 ft tall growth with light yellow flowers
- ‘Petite Salmon’ – Dwarf plant, not as cold hardy as other cultivars
- ‘Algiers’ – Dark red flowers
- ‘Sister Agnes’ – Hardy, grows up 12 ft and has large white flowers
Planting: The best time to plant Oleander shrubs is in early spring or fall when the ground isn’t cold or frozen. Avoid planting Oleander in direct sun as right away that will cause distress. Planting in overcast weather lets the plant have enough time to adjust.
Place your shrubs 6-12 feet apart and in holes dug at least 2-3 times that of the bulb or container that the shrub came in. Upon tending and mounding your soil, create a small, raised mound going around the hole to serve as a reservoir for watering.
Watering
Water thoroughly when planting and after. Oleander typically needs 1-2 inches of water per week in the summer so if your region is getting that with rainfall, do not water your plant. If you live in dryer regions, you can supplement with 1 inch of water per week.
Maintaining
Staking: To allow for the roots to grow deep enough to support the weight of the shrub, try staking your root structure in place. Shrubs grown in windy areas could benefit from longer term staking to prevent being blown over.
Soil/Composting: Oleander is a very sturdy shrub that can resist differing soil types and salt spray however, helping your soil can help with growth rate and flowering. A soil that is nitrogen rich should be plenty for good growth. Sandy soil can pose problems when it comes to water absorption so by adding peat moss, you can enhance this aspect for the shrub.
Deadheading: This is recommended to improve shrubbery looks and to optimize the plants energy into increased seed and flower production. Shrubs, like Oleander, that bloom over summers and span many seasons benefit the most from deadheading.
Disease/Pest Prevention
Disease
- Bacterial blight
- Crown gall
- Leaf spots
- Oleander knot
- Oleander leaf scorch
Pests
- Aphids
- Armored sales
- Glassy-winged sharpshooter
- Mealybugs
- Soft scales
Prevention: Give your Oleander the best chance at survival by planting in full sun, watering in times of extended drought, and fertilizing them according to your soil make-up. Avoid watering the plants and stems as this moisture makes for a disease breeding ground. Prune and deadhead often with sanitized pruning tools.
King Protea
Where & When To Plant
Season: Protea prefer to grow in dryer regions and areas where there is full sun.
Types of Proteas:
- King Protea – These amazing blooms have symbolized beauty, strength, and sturdiness for generations as one of the most popular cultivars from the genus
- Leucospermum – As rounded low shrubs, they do best in mass-plantings and in well-draining soil like sand. Regions they grow best in are cooler mountain regions, temperate zones, and coastal areas.
- Serruria – This cultivar boasts beautiful creamy looking flowers and are best positioned for well-draining pots.
- Leucadendron – These are grown for their attractive tulip shaped flowers and color. They mature dramatically in autumn and winter provided they are kept in containers with good drainage.
Planting: When choosing a spot to plant your protea or position a pot, always choose sunny. The more sun you expose the proteas to means more flowers will grow. Consider raised beds or sunny-exposed banks as they tend to be great for draining soil.
Watering
Water plants often but not too often. Keeping to a once-per-week schedule when just starting out is fine. Once established, stick to every two to three weeks.
Soil: Protea plants love well-draining soil. If you are planting outside, mix bark and mulch into your soil to improve drainage as the root system grows horizontally. Your plant will die if the roots become waterlogged. If you are planting in a pot, use an even mixture of rocks, bark, mulch, soil, and low-nutrient dense fertilizer for best results.
Maintaining
Staking: Proteas don’t like root disturbance so when getting started, stake your root system as to ensure that it will not be agitated, and can allow for the roots to grow deep enough to support the larger protea heads.
Composting: Avoid fertilizer, particularly high phosphorus soil, because it will kill your protea. Instead, maintaining acidic, nutrient-poor soil for your protea will give you the best chances at growing. That’s why these plants are great for that more difficult region of your garden that may contain lots of rocks or have a hard time of getting water.
Deadheading: Removing tired or shriveled heads is the best way to keep your proteas tidy and compact. This will also encourage maximized growth.
Disease/Pest Prevention
Disease
- Fungal diseases like Colletotrichum or Rhizoctonia live on the soil and attack seeds, killing them at the stem.
- Phytophthora cinnamon (Root rot fungus)
- Shoot blight, canker, and die-back
- Leaf speck, blotch, and spot disease
- Witches Broom
Prevention: While it can be hard to defend proteas against diseases once they have begun, it’s easier to prevent them. By making sure that your soils and beds are cleaned with a fungicide or pesticide, aerated for ventilation, and located in full-sun areas, you can give your proteas the best chance at survival.
Agapanthus
Where & When To Plant
Season: You will want to wait until the danger of frost has completely passed and the soil has rewarmed to a 50°F temperature before you plant your Agapanthus; usually in mid-late spring.
This plant is a summer showing plant with big clusters of flowers ranging in colors of sky blue to white all the way to pinks, purples, and light reds. Different varieties include:
- Agapanthus orientalis – The most common type of agapanthus producing wide arching leaves with stems that can reach 4-5 feet
- Agapanthus campanulatus – With dark blue drooping flowers, this variety is deciduous and also called ‘albidus’
- Agapanthus africanus – This evergreen variety can only reach heights of 18 inches presenting narrow leaves and deep blue flowers
Planting: Agapanthus plants thrive in full sun getting 6-8 hours of sunlight each day. After finding a spot where you want to plant that has these qualifications, dig a 2-inch-deep hole, about 10-20 inches apart, leaving enough room to grow.
Watering
Water regularly during growing season and water frequently to meet their heavy-feeder tendencies. When you see yellowing leaves, stop watering immediately. This is a sign you are watering too much.
Soil: They perform the best when planted in well-drained soil. Although most cultivars don’t prefer a specific pH optimized soil, research has been found showing that Agapanthus Africanus prefers acidic soil.
Maintaining
Staking: Agapanthus occasionally struggles to stay upright especially if not surrounded by other Agapanthus. Consider staking in earlier stages to help it grow upright until the roots and stems are strong enough.
Composting: Agapanthus is a plant that heavily feeds so when you get it planted, supplement your soil, unless already nutrient-dense, with organic compost mixed in equally.
Deadheading: Removing dead or fading blossoms will promote new growth and prevent nutrients from being wasted. Keep the leaves post-blooming so that you can re-introduce them when planting new bulbs. The leaves help the bulb through photosynthesis so it’s good to keep the extra blossoms.
Disease/Pest Prevention
Disease
- Anthracnose
- Gray Mold
- Leaf Spot
- Powdery Mildew
- Root Rot
Prevention: As with most fungal diseases, the best way to prevent fungus from running rampant in your plants is to sterilize your beds, pruning shears, and other items that encounter the plant. Other means of disease prevention include ensuring that the soil is properly draining as waterlogged soil limits the roots of the oxygen they need. When deprived of oxygen, roots are vulnerable to fungal or pesticidal attacks.
Hyacinth
Warning: Hyacinth bulbs are poisonous. Always remember to wear gloves and sleeved shirts when tending Hyacinths.
Where & When To Plant
Season: Hyacinth’s, commonly called “nature’s perfume” for it’s memorable and distinct aromas, are perennial flowers boasting bright pastel colors during their bloom season in mid-spring.
Hyacinth varieties and color variations (included but not limited to):
- Hyacinths (Hyacinthus) – Each bulb of this genus produces one flower that stands 8 to 10 inches tall. While originally sporting violet and pale blue colors, they have since been cultivated to blossom into a rainbow of colors. Not kidding.
- Aiolos – This cultivar has bright white and starry blossoms when they bloom and can grow to 8-12 inches.
- Anna Marie – Winning many flower awards spanning multiple countries, the Anna Marie blossoms are light pink and have dark centers.
- Jan Bos – This red-dark pink variety can grow up to 4” tall enjoying a strong and pleasant fragrance. Blooms arrive in mid-spring lasting several weeks.
- Lady Derby – This variety has bright green stems contrasting the blossoming pale rose petals. Very sturdy.
Planting: Most Hyacinth’s are capable of growing in zones 3-9 but since they need roughly three months of chilly temperatures (40-50°F), the best planting time is in late summer, early fall. Another measurement for the right planting time is to wait until the first frost to plant but make sure to have them in the ground before the first freeze.
Place bulbs adequately apart from one another (8-12 inches) and deep enough (5-6 inches for zones 3-5 and 7-8 inches for zones 6-9) to survive the “chilly” months.
Choose areas that get full sun exposure.
Watering
Do not overwater your Hyacinths. A good rule of thumb to follow is by watering only if the soil 3 inches deep is dry. If the soil at that depth is still moist, do not water. Hyacinths do not like standing water and will die. Water at the root, not on the flowers or foliage.
Soil: Grow in aerated, well mixed soil that is neither nutrient-poor nor nutrient-rich. The goal is to get the bulbs to grow strong and straight stems so that they grow tall and bloom brightly.
Maintaining
Staking: Depending on the variety, some plants can grow up to 16-18 inches. In the case of these larger blooms, top-heavy hyacinths should be supported by stakes. Wait until the flowers begin blooming in spring to use stakes and support upwards.
Composting: You won’t need to compost frequently. 2-3 times is plenty enough. Engage 2-3 inches deep of your soil with fertilizer a couple weeks after planting and once more when air and soil temperatures begin to raise above 50°F. If your soil is naturally on the nutrient-poor side, think about fertilizing a third time.
Deadheading: After blossoming, remove the blooms and keep so they can be added to the bulbs for next year’s blooms. This process of removing blooms and re-adding them the following year will allow your hyacinths to grow the brightest and most colorful.
Disease/Pest Prevention
Disease
- Gray mold
- Bulb rot
- Botrytis blight
Pest
- Growers typically don’t have to deal with pests as the bulbs contain a poisonous compound, calcium oxalate, that can cause stomach and respiratory issues along with skin irritation
Prevention: Well-draining soil that is also high in absorption qualities will help the most in preventing this issue. Additionally, not overwatering will help too. Use fungicides to clean your soil and pruning/tending tools so that fungal diseases don’t spread.
Sources
Boeckmann, Catherine. “Growing Peonies”, The Old Farmer’s Almanac, https://www.almanac.com/plant/peonies#. Accessed 20 September 2021.
“How to Grow Peonies”, Miracle Grow, https://www.miraclegro.com/en-us/library/flowers-landscaping/how-grow-peonies. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Blackstone, Victoria. “Oleander Plant Diseases – How To Treat Diseases Of Oleander Plants”, GardeningKnowHow.com, https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/oleander/oleander-plant-diseases.htm. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Ballard, Gloria. “Oleander: Pretty But Poisonous”, HGTV.com, 28 August 2021. https://www.hgtv.com/outdoors/flowers-and-plants/trees-and-shrubs/oleander-is-a-dangerous-beauty. Accessed 20 September 2021.
“Oleander – Nerium oleander Family Apocynaceae (Dogbane family)”, University of California Agriculture & Natural Resources, http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/oleander.html. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Miller, Renee. “Deadheading Shrubs”, SFGATE.com, https://homeguides.sfgate.com/deadheading-shrubs-36608.html. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Singleton, Bonnie. “The Best Way to Plant Oleander”, SFGATE.com, https://homeguides.sfgate.com/growth-rate-oleander-plants-75907.html. Accessed 20 September 2021.
“Protea Diseases”, Protea Atlas Project, https://www.proteaatlas.org.za/diseases.htm. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Baessler, Liz. “Protea Plant Care: Tips On Growing Protea Plants”, GardeningKnowHow.com, https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/protea/protea-plant-care-tips.htm. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Better Homes and Gardens Editors. “How to grow proteas”, BetterHomesandGardens.com, https://www.bhg.com.au/how-to-grow-proteas. Accessed 20 September 2021.
“Learn How To Plant, Care and Grow Bountiful Agapanthus”, Gardenia Creating Gardens, https://www.gardenia.net/guide/learn-how-to-plant-and-care-for-your-agapanthus. Accessed 20 September 2021.
George, PhD, Helga. “How To Identify And Treat Agapanthus Diseases”, Gardner’s Path, 20 January 2021. https://gardenerspath.com/how-to/disease-and-pests/agapanthus-diseases/. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Dyer, Mary. “Varieties Of Agapanthus: What Are The Types Of Agapanthus Plants”, GardeningKnowHow.com, https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/agapanthus/types-of-agapanthus-plants.htm. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Boeckmann, Catherine. “Growing Hyacinth And Muscari”, The Old Farmer’s Almanac, https://www.almanac.com/plant/growing-hyacinth-muscari. Accessed 20 September 2021.
“25+ Best Hyacinth Types & Easy Guide on How to Grow Them”, Planted Well, https://www.plantedwell.com/hyacinth/. Accessed 20 September 2021.
Tilley, Nikki. “Hyacinth Plant Flopping: Tips For Supporting Your Top Heavy Hyacinth Flowers” GardeningKnowHow.com, https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/hyacinth/hyacinths-falling-over.htm. Accessed 20 September 2021.
“Hyacinth (Hyacinthus)” The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station, https://portal.ct.gov/CAES/Plant-Pest-Handbook/pphH/Hyacinth-Hyacinthus. Accessed 20 September 2021.
“Peony Diseases and Pests”, The American Peony Society, https://americanpeonysociety.org/learn/diseases-and-pests/. Accessed 20 September 2021.
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